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Posted from September 2009 issue
Five great scenic vistas on the Mississippi River Tim Spitzack Editor
There is something mysterious about large bodies of water that lure us to them to think, to dream, to contemplate life issues, and the Mississippi River Valley offers many scenic vistas that allow you to do just that. Here are five overlooks that you should considering visiting this fall to take in the splendor of the river when it’s robed in its autumn attire.
Most historic
Two Rivers overlook at Hidden Falls /Crosby Farm Regional Park offers a sweeping view of the confluence of the Mississippi and Minnesota rivers, Pike Island and historic Fort Snelling. Prior to statehood, this area was a hotbed of activity for pioneers, fur traders, soldiers and Indian affairs. The overlook offers several interpretive displays that reveal the vast history of the area.
Location: near the intersection of Shepard Road and Crosby Farm Road, St. Paul.
Best view of the St. Paul skyline
An overlook at High Bridge Park, located near the West Side approach of the Smith Avenue High Bridge, offers excellent views of the river and the downtown skyline. There are only two benches at this park, but there is a public lawn to the east that has several benches that overlook the river. It’s a quiet area for you to be alone or to enjoy conversation with a family member or friend as you gaze upon the river and the skyline.
Location: near Smith and Cherokee avenues on St. Paul’s West Side.
Best nighttime view
For one of the most romantic views of the river and the St. Paul riverfront, visit the Science Museum of Minnesota in the evening. It’s at this time that the river is illuminated by the lampposts along the Sam Morgan Trail and the lights from the Padelford Riverboats and the other entertainment venues in Harriet Island Regional Park. An outdoor viewing platform on the east side of the building offers interpretive signage and a free telescope.
Location: Science Museum of Minnesota, Kellogg Boulevard, downtown St. Paul.
Working river
Planes, trains, automobiles, boats and barges—you can see them all from the Kellogg Mall in downtown St. Paul. This overlook offers views of the Smith Avenue, Wabasha, Robert Street and Lafayette bridges, as well as the Union Pacific lift bridge. Directly across the river is the St. Paul Yacht Club, and downstream is Upper River Services, a company that provides switching services for barge companies. Here you’ll see barges lined up along the riverbank awaiting passage downriver. Also, Holman Field is nearby, with private jets and small aircraft ascending and descending on St. Paul’s airport.
Location: on Kellogg Boulevard, between Wabasha and Robert Street, downtown St. Paul.
Best bird viewing area
Grab your binoculars and head to South St. Paul’s newest park—Kaposia Landing. This park offers a great viewing area of the Pigs Eye Island Heron Rookery, a state scientific and natural area that is home to a large number of colonial waterbirds, including the great blue heron, great egret, black-crowned night heron, double-crested cormorants and the yellow-crowned night heron. Bald eagles also nest on the island, so you’re likely to see our national bird soaring overhead.
Location: near Concord and Bryant avenues in South St. Paul.
A great Sunday afternoon drive
If you haven’t done so, take a slow drive along Mississippi River Boulevard in St. Paul. This beautiful, winding parkway hugs the contour of the river and is lined with majestic hardwoods that burst with color in the fall. Several scenic overlooks along the way offer views of the river gorge, the Ford Dam and other sites.
Location: From the east, Shepard turns into Mississippi Boulevard near Crosby Farm Road.
Posted from August 2009 issue
The ruins from the Twin Cities Brick Company, which was founded in 1894 and made bricks until the 1970s from shale quarried from the bluffs, is a popular site for fossil hunting in Lilydale Regional Park.
Big plans in-store for Lilydale Regional Park Tim Spitzack Editor
On July 15, the St. Paul Parks Commission gave its stamp of approval to a new master site plan for Lilydale Regional Park, which paves the way for some improvements to the park, which is nestled along the West Bank of the Mississippi River. The plan was also approved by the Lilydale Regional Park Task Force, which has been meeting with St. Paul Parks and Recreation since September 2007 to develop creative ways to enhance and preserve the natural beauty of this 384-acre park.
Included in the plan are an entrance gateway near Harriet Island, shoreline and riverbank naturalization, invasive plant removal, an 8.5-acre dog park, a picnic shelter and a restroom, park road and trail improvements, and storm water treatment solutions to improve the water quality in Pickerel Lake. Parks and Recreation is currently updating the Lilydale Regional Park Master Plan, created in the early ‘90s, which it will present to the Metropolitan Council for final approval.
Project manager Alice Messer, a landscape architect with the city of St. Paul, projects that at least $9 million is needed for all of the improvements. She said nearly $1 million will come from Legacy Act funds, which are supported by a voter approved three-eighths-of-one percent sales tax that is in effect through July 1, 2034. Those funds will be used for site clean-up and restoration.
"Lilydale Regional Park has received very little funding in the last 30 years," said Messer. "The development of the revised site plan is the starting point for the City to begin to pursue funding opportunities to implement the improvements needed to protect and enhance such a unique natural area within minutes of downtown St. Paul."
Park history
Lilydale Regional Park is a natural oasis in the heart of the metropolitan area, featuring limestone caves, two waterfalls, regional trails and the remnants of a former village and a brick-making company. It was designated a regional park by the state legislature in 1971 for its natural and historical value.
In the late 1800s, the parkland was home to the residents of the village of Lilydale, reportedly named after the high number of water lilies present in nearby Pickerel Lake. The village had a few dozen homes and a village hall, which was located in a former one-room schoolhouse. It also was the site of the Twin Cities Brick Company, which was founded in 1894 and made bricks until the 1970s from shale quarried from the bluffs. This site, which still features the ruins of a brick kiln, is popular among fossil hunters (a permit from the city of St. Paul is required for fossil hunting). The village, which was prone to constant flooding, was abandoned in the early ’70s. Following the flood of 1965, its residents and businesses began moving to higher ground, where they eventually created the city of Lilydale. Due to their departure, the area has been uninhabited for nearly 40 years and has returned to a natural state.
Working for improvement
The park is located adjacent to Harriet Island Regional Park, which has seen major improvements over the past 10 years, making it suitable for large events, such as the recent Taste of Minnesota. However, Lilydale Park has received little attention and funding. Currently, a narrow road winds through the park, offering access to a boat launch and bike trail.
Supporting the development efforts is a citizens group named Friends of Lilydale, which has endorsed the proposed Lilydale Park master plan. Some of the group’s recent efforts include creating Vento’s View Lookout, aeration of Pickerel Lake, and the Brickyard Trail, which was dedicated in 2007 and provides a connection between Cherokee Regional Park and Lilydale Regional Park. They have worked with St. Paul Parks and Recreation and the National Park Service to provide interpretive signage along the trail near the eastern edge of Pickerel Lake. In addition, the group has hosted camping and fossil-hunting events in the park.
For more information on the plan, call Messer at 651-266-6412, or visit www.stpaul.gov/index.aspx?NID=2693.
Posted from July 2009 issue
To commemorate its 40th anniversary, The Padleford Riverboats Company gave away 2,600 free rides on Memorial Day. Photo courtesy of Padelford Riverboats Company.
How one man’s dream has became his legacy Padelford Riverboats Company commemorates 40 years on the river Tim Spitzack Publisher
In 1969, while the nation was tuned in to events taking place around the globe, including the Vietnam War, the Woodstock Music Festival and Apollo 9’s space flight, there was a man in St. Paul who was quietly hatching a dream that has since become his legacy. His name is Captain William D. Bowell, Sr., and he did what many at the time believed was impossible. He established a floating entertainment venue on the Mississippi River. Today, that business—the Padelford Riverboats Company—has served over four million people and continues to introduce scores of people to the beauty of the river.
How it all began
The creation of the Padelford Riverboats Company was a second career ambition for Bowell, a St. Paul native who served as a paratrooper in World War II. After receiving a degree in economics from Macalester College, he set out for Chicago, where he made a name for himself in the printing industry. However, his heart was never far from home.
"Chicago life was too many martinis," he said. "I wanted to get back to St. Paul."
So he moved back to Minnesota and purchased a plastics company in St. Paul with his brother Jim. It was during that time that William’s attention turned to the river.
"I was sitting on a bench at Muller Boatworks in Stillwater when the idea dawned on me to establish an excursion boat business on the (Mississippi) river," he said.
With that notion stuck in his craw, he thrust his energy into studying riverboats and traveling across the country to learn more about them. He eventually found one he liked in Dubuque, Iowa, but it came with a steep price tag: $250,000.
"A lot of my friends thought I was crazy," recalled Bowell, 88. "My net worth at that time was $119,000, but I never had any doubts. I had done a lot of market studies and they all were positive."
Determined to turn his dream into reality, he started knocking on the doors of several banks and finally found one in Stillwater that agreed to float him a loan. With the cash in hand, he purchased his first vessel, which has become the flagship of the company: the Jonathan Padelford, a 125-foot authentic sternwheeler whose steam propulsion system was replaced by a hydraulic pressure system. It can accommodate 200 passengers.
Next, he had to find a place to dock it, so he approached the city of St. Paul to get permission to dock at Harriet Island. After several meetings, he and city leaders agreed upon a lease arrangement that was financed by a percentage of passenger sales. Soon he was offering afternoon and weekend cruises on the river, and getting very little sleep.
"I put in many 20-hour days," he said of the early years. However, the hours didn’t bother him since a strong work ethic has always been part of the fabric of his life. He said he worked under a philosophy inspired by a verse from Henry Wadsworth Longfellow—"The heights by great men reached and kept, Were not attained by sudden flight, But they while their companions slept, Were toiling upwards in the night."
Nearly 20 years later, he expanded his fleet by purchasing the 350-passenger sidewheeler Anson Northrup, and in 1990 he bought his third vessel, the Betsey Northrup, and converted it into a two deck, 360-passenger party barge. The Betsey Northrup can be operated separately when pushed by the company’s towboat, Ugh the Tug, or it can be attached to the Anson Northrup to carry 710 passengers.
In 2003, after operating in both St. Paul and Minneapolis, the Padelford Riverboats Company moved all of it boats to Harriet Island for cost and operational efficiencies. The company still offers limited service to Minneapolis by offering large public charters. It has a contract with the U.S. Corps Army of Engineers that grants it landing rights at the St. Anthony Locks near the Mill City Museum.
Padelford Riverboats also operates the Minnesota Centennial Showboat, which is docked at Harriet Island and offers performances by the University of Minnesota theater department. One of Bowell’s last accomplishments before retiring in 2001 was to supervise construction of the Showboat. The original showboat burned to the waterline in 2000 after a welder’s torch sparked a fire during a badly needed renovation project. The first boat was built in 1899 and was purchased for use as a theater by the University in 1958 as a part of the state’s centennial celebration. After the fire, the University said it was unable to replace the Showboat, so the Padelford Company stepped forward to save it and contributed $300,000 to project. At that time, it received a management contract with the University to operate the 225-seat theater and reception area.
Michael Hahm, director of St. Paul Parks and Recreation, praised The Padleford Riverboats Company for being a catalyst for riverfront development in St. Paul.
"They have been a tremendous partner over the years," he said. "When I reflect on the partnership and what Padleford has done, they are one of the first to make an investment in connecting the community with the river. They provide a great recreational amenity for people visiting the river."
Padelford riverboats are also used to introduce school children to the river. Through a partnership with the National Park Service and its Big River Journey program, over 700,000 children have experienced the river on a "floating laboratory."
Today, the company is owned by Bowell’s nephew, Steve Bowell, and daughters Shelley Bowell Kosmo and Beth Bowell Myers. Captain Steve Bowell has been president since 1999. He joined the company in 1993 as vice president, but it was not his first working experience with the company. In 1975, at the age of 15, he worked odd jobs for his uncle William. As president, he has guided the company through the 2004 Grand Excursion, the opening of the Minnesota Centennial Showboat Theater and the transfer of ownership.
The Padelford Riverboat Company offers cruises at noon and 2 p.m. daily, except Mondays, and weekend lunch and dinner cruises. For more information, call 651-227-1100 or visit www.riverrides.com. To learn more about Captain William D. Bowell, Sr., purchase his memoire "Ol Man River: Memoirs of a Riverboat Captain," available online and at local bookstores.
Posted from May 2009 issue
Dialogue on the River New monthly river forums held to address issues, spark discussion
Tim Spitzack Editor
A St. Paul man is standing on an alcove overlook on the Wabasha Street Bridge, enjoying the view of the river and the warmth of the springtime sun during his lunch hour. He takes one last long drag of his cigarette and flips the butt into the river below as he heads back to work.
A woman is walking her dog along a river trail in Minneapolis. The dog pulls her off the trail and defecates. She tugs her pet back onto the trail and continues on her way.
A man in South St. Paul is waging war against weeds in his yard. While fertilizing his lawn, the wheel of his fertilizer spreader slips off the curb and a mound of pellets spill into the street. He kicks the pile with his foot to spread out the mess and continues working.
These are just a few examples of how the actions of people affect the water quality of the Mississippi River. Combined with the strains of urban, suburban and agricultural run-off, the Mississippi River faces many challenges that affect its health.
Monthly forums
The National Park Service (NPS) is hosting a new series of monthly forums to address the state of the river and publicize ways that businesses, residents and farmers can work together to improve the health of the river. The NPS held its first forum Friday, April 24, at the Science Museum of Minnesota in St. Paul. Topics addressed during this half-day workshop included bacterial contamination in the river, the impact of pollution on wildlife, new contaminants being discovered in the river, and the connection between land use and water quality. Nearly 100 people attended the event, including staff from the DNR, Minnesota Pollution Control Agency (MPCA), watershed districts, legislators, agricultural groups and environmental planners. Lark Weller, a community planner for the NPS who is helping organize the forums, said the response among these people has been positive and that there is an eagerness to share information and let others know what projects are being worked on.
"Our message is that we’re all impacted by what others are doing (along the river)," said Weller. "Since the Clean Water Act in the ’70s, we’ve been successful in cleaning up some types of pollution on the river, but it is still impaired in some areas. There are still some lingering issues."
Monthly forums will be held 7:30- 9 a.m. the third Friday of each month throughout the year at locations within the Twin Cities and St. Cloud. Each meeting will include a presentation, discussion and light breakfast. The goal is to bring decision-makers together to share information and debate methods on how to improve the health of the river. For more information on upcoming forums, call Weller at 651-290-3030, ext. 304, or visit http://www.nps.gov/miss/naturescience/riverforum.htm
Quality of life
For residents of St. Paul and the surrounding communities, the health of the Mississippi River is directly linked to their quality of life. For example, it is their primary source of drinking water, it’s an important transportation corridor, and it provides a wide variety of recreational opportunities. The NPS envisions the Mississippi River of the future as being a river that is safe for drinking, fishing and swimming. But there is still some work to be done to make that happen. Portions of the river in the Twin Cities exceed water quality standards for mercury, bacteria, sediment, PCBs (polychlorinated biphenyl), and nutrients. St. Paul and the surrounding suburbs get as much as 90 percent of their drinking water from the river. This water is tested and treated before it enters the public water system to ensure that it is safe to drink.
The NPS is one of the groups working with the MPCA to identify sources of bacterial contamination in the river and develop a plan to reduce it. However, any recovery plan will require participation from the residential, agricultural and industrial communities and may take many years before results are seen.
How to help
The NPS suggest these simple ways for residents to help:
• Use herbicides, pesticides, and fertilizers sparingly. Never apply fertilizer before a rainstorm because it will wash off your lawn and into storm drains, making its way to the river.
• Plant native plants and trees in your yard to help infiltrate stormwater.
• Mow your lawn at the appropriate height: grass that is kept at three inches will be healthier, better able to resist drought and helps slow runoff.
• Clean up after your pet. When you walk your dog, bring a plastic bag to collect its feces, and then dispose of it in the trash. This will keep it out of the storm sewers and the river.
• Don’t litter. Trash that is thrown on the ground, including bottles, gum, wrappers and cigarette butts, can be carried to the river by storm sewers.
• If you wash your car at home, wash it on grass, gravel or another permeable surface, and use as little soap as possible. In doing so, the ground will help filter the dirty wash water.
Posted from April 2009 issue
Historic Mississippi River maps featured in new exhibit at the Minnesota History Center Tim Spitzack Editor
It’s early March and a group of elementary school children are wandering noisily through the Minnesota History Center in downtown St. Paul, getting a history lesson that is far more fascinating than the one they normally receive in a classroom reading from a text book. They venture toward the new "Minnesota on the Map" exhibit and suddenly emit a chorus of groans. Their leaders are unwilling to fight the battle and reluctantly lead them on to another room with hands-on exhibits. Patrick Coleman, acquisitions librarian for the Minnesota Historical Society and creator of the exhibit, stops midsentence during a tour and quips, with a blush and a laugh, "I think I’ve just been ‘dissed.’ "
To children, maps are simply lines on paper that hold little significance. To adults, especially lovers of history, they are so much more. Those lines represent exploration and struggle, commerce and development, and they show how our society has evolved over time. Coleman has spent the last six months organizing the exhibit, entitled "Minnesota on the Map:Four Centuries of Maps from the Minnesota Historical Society Collection," which is showing through September 7 at the Minnesota History Center, 345 Kellogg Blvd., St. Paul. The exhibit features maps from the Society’s collection of 19,000 maps and 2,000 volumes of atlases. There are maps on display that depict Minnesota regions, counties and cities from 1840 to the present, as well as many specialty maps, including several of the Mississippi River.
Mississippi maps
Many had tried and many had failed. That was the story in the early 1800s when governments were commissioning geologists and explorers to find the source of the Mississippi River. Eventually, it was Henry Rowe Schoolcraft, with the help of Yellow Head, an Ojibwe, who discovered the true headwaters of the river at Lake Itasca. In 1832, Schoolcraft, then an Indian agent, traveled to the upper Mississippi River valley to help settle disputes between the Ojibwe and Dakota nations. During that trip, he explored the surrounding region and made the first accurate map of the area, which is on display in the exhibit along with the published account of the discovery, "Narrative of an Expedition Through the Upper Mississippi River to Itasca Lake." The 1832 trip was Schoolcraft’s second trip to the Upper Mississippi River valley. In 1820, he was a geologist with the Lewis Cass expedition that misidentified the headwaters as being at Cass Lake.
Schoolcraft’s map is the first to show the Mississippi River beginning at Lake Itasca. Other maps on display that are dated prior to this one depict the river’s source in many different areas, including one that that had it extending north into Canada. However, as with most vintage maps, this one contains some inaccuracies. For example, it states that the Mississippi River is 3,160 miles long, when in reality it is 2,340 miles from Lake Itasca to the Gulf of Mexico. Coleman said the inaccuracies of early maps are the result of their being created from verbal accounts rather than on scientific calculations.
"I like the thought that there is something innate in man in that we need to explore, explore, explore until we find the source," said Coleman. "In the case of the Mississippi, each explorer felt compelled to declare a true source. Until Schoolcraft there was cartographic speculation that the Mississippi began far north of the 49
th parallel. Another common mistake, on French maps especially, was showing the mouth of the river far west of the actual location. This may have been politically motivated to increase claimed territory. There are other little mistakes on other Mississippi River maps, too, if you look for them. One of my favorites is the placement of Lake Pepin on the St. Croix River."
Another interesting map in the exhibit is the 1866 Ribbon Map of the Father of Waters, by Coloney and Fairchild. It’s a roughly 2-inch-wide by 18-foot-long paper map that rolls into a brass case. It’s one of the more unusual maps in the collection because it has straightened the river slightly to fit on the ribbon. Its intended use is unknown, but it’s believed to have been used for casual recreational travel along the river.
For more information on the exhibit, call 651-259-3000, or visit www.mnhs.org/historycenter. Admission to the History Center is $10 for adults, $8 for seniors and $5 for children ages 6-17. Children under age 6 are free.
Posted from March 2009 issue
Roger Anderson, manager of the St. Paul Yacht Club, predicts that boaters will be staying closer to home this year.
The boating season is in sight
Pleasure boaters may find the river a bit quieter this spring. Or will they? Tim Spitzack Editor
Roger Anderson, manager of the St. Paul Yacht Club, is like many others who have a passion for boats. When the calendar flips from February to March and the mercury begins to bubble past the freezing point, he gets excited because he knows the end of a long, cold winter is in sight and that soon he’ll be back on the river doing what he loves best. Beginning in March, he and countless other boaters will begin prepping their boats for another season by pulling off tarps and shrink-wrap, performing maintenance that they put off last fall, and scheduling a time for the marina to drop their boat back into their slip. There’s an aura of excitement around the marina in springtime, but time will tell if that excitement is enough to reverse last year’s low traffic counts on the river.
According to recent statistics from the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, both commercial and recreational boat traffic was down considerably on the Upper Mississippi River last year. The Corps measures traffic through its locks, and earlier this year reported that about one-third fewer tons of cargo passed through them in 2008 than in 2007. Lock Number 2 near Hastings, which is the first true gauge for shipping, supports these statistics—commercial traffic was down 32 percent, cargo was down 33 percent, and recreational boat traffic declined by 30 percent. This means fewer barges were hauling goods to the Gulf of Mexico for export to foreign markets and fewer pleasure boaters were making extended trips. While the Corps declined to comment on the cause, it is expected to be the result of the weakened economy, high fuel costs, and the fact that more corn, which is one of Minnesota’s largest commodities shipped on the river, is staying in the state for the production of ethanol.
Pleasure cruising
Locally, recreational traffic seems to be strong, at least in the popular cruising area between Lock and Dam 1 in Minneapolis and Lock and Dam 2 in Hastings. At Lock 1, recreational traffic increased nearly 65 percent. This is an indication that boaters are staying closer to home, which isn’t surprising given last summer’s grossly high fuel prices.
"The amount of travel was less last year, which I attribute mainly to the high gas prices," said Anderson, who has been with the Yacht Club for 10 years, and a boater for 20 years. He said fuel prices peaked at $4.40 per gallon in 2008, but he believes they will be about $2 per gallon cheaper this year, based on current oil prices. Nonetheless, he still anticipates that many Yacht Club members will continue shedding longer trips for shorter ones.
"I think this year people will be staying closer," he said. "There are a lot of people who had never been to Minneapolis (on the river) before last year and found that it’s a nice trip. Some people never leave the marina. They use their boat like a cabin."
Boating can be an expensive hobby, considering slip rental, maintenance and fuel costs. Anderson said most boats average around two miles per gallon, so even a short trip upriver to Minneapolis or downriver to Hastings can cost $50-$100 in fuel for the round-trip. Slip rental at the St. Paul Yacht Club ranges from $1,500-$2,500. The Club is a public marina with 210 slips, including 26 that are leased to people who live on their boat year-round. It also offers slips for transient overnight stay—there are usually about 20 slips available throughout the year.
A working river
Dick Lambert, director of the Minnesota Department of Transportation, Ports and Waterways, believes the production of ethanol played a large factor in last year’s shipping decline on the river, but said high ocean freight rates out of the Gulf of Mexico affected it, as well. These high rates made it more attractive to transport commodities by rail to the Pacific Rim and then ship it from there.
"Last year grain tonnage was way off on the river," said Lambert. "However, the advantage is leaning more evenly toward using the river again." This is due, in part, to lower fuel prices and the lowering or eliminating of shipping surcharges.
According to Lambert, who has worked with MNDOT for the past 16 years and in the barge industry for 32 years prior, barge shipping is the most cost-effective way to transport commodities. Each barge carries 1,500 to 1,650 tons of freight, which is 15 times more than a rail car and 60 times more than a truck. Also, towboats are cheaper to operate. One gallon of fuel can move one ton of freight 575 miles on the river, versus 440 miles by rail and 150 miles by truck.
Posted from February 2009 issue
Patrick Coleman, acquisitions librarian for the Minnesota Historical Society, shows off a copy of one of his all-time favorite river books: “Mostly Mississippi.”
River Reader
Literature on the Mississippi River is filled with history, adventure and romance. Here are some titles that are sure to stir your imagination and curiosity of America’s greatest river.
Tim Spitzack Editor
If Mark Twain’s "The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn" is the extent of your exposure to literature on the Mississippi River, then it’s time to expand your horizons, and Patrick Coleman is just the man who can help. As acquisitions librarian for the Minnesota Historical Society, he is overseer of one of the country’s most complete collections of books on the Mississippi River. He also has his own private collection, which numbers over 100, possibly near 200. He’s not sure of the exact number because he hasn’t taken the time to count them, but he has read them all and can quickly give you a summary of each title, and his opinion on it.
At his home in Roseville, just a stone’s throw from the St. Paul border, his bookshelf is the centerpiece of his home. On it are century-old, hard-bound volumes to modern paperbacks. All of these books tell a unique version of the Mississippi Rver story. They speak of Native Americans and pioneers, of adventurers and explorers, and of people who have made successful and unsuccessful trips down the river. He gently pulls one of his favorites from the shelf. It’s "Mostly Mississippi" by Harold Speakman, the book that most greatly influenced his love of Mississippi River literature. Next, he retrieves a copy of "Mississippi Solo" by Eddie Harris and pulls out a hand-written note from the author from its pages, and then "Old Glory" by Johnathan Raban. It was this book that really piqued his interest in reading and collecting books on the Mississippi River. The reason, he says, is because it angered him in that it portrayed people who live along the river as simple and ignorant, which is contrary to what he knows them to be and contrary to the accounts of nearly every other author who has penned a Mississippi River travelogue.
At 56, Coleman is a soft-spoken man who loves what he does. He grew up in St. Paul’s West End and spent his youth exploring the caves in the bluffs, hiking along and boating on the river, and getting into a certain amount of mischief, such as the time he and his friends sunk a barge.
"Not one of my finer moments," he recalled, with a boyish sparkle in his eyes.
He continues to enjoy the river by hiking its banks with his dog Finbar—Hidden Falls is his favorite area—and canoeing in the summertime and cross-country skiing in the winter.
Coleman is one of the rare few who have turned an avocation into a vocation. He essentially designed his own degree from the University of Minnesota, with an emphasis on history. He graduated in 1978 and was hired by the Minnesota Historical Society shortly thereafter.
"I actually get paid to do things that I do anyway," quips Coleman. Some of his duties include scouring used book stores for rare titles, reading book reviews and attending antiquarian book fairs. When he finds a treasure, he must often seek private donations to purchase it for the State. His most recent acquisition was a rare 1765 French globe, which cost $70,000. This globe may be part of the new Cartography display—Minnesota on the Map: Four Centuries of Maps from the Minnesota Historical Society Collection—which opens February 28 at the Minnesota History Center. Coleman is also the map curator for the Society and is responsible for organizing this new exhibit. Many of the maps in the display will feature the Mississippi River, he said.
"The Historical Society has one of the best collections of books on the river that I know of," said Coleman. "We also have a large collection of artwork and other artifacts of the river. Most of it is in storage but the public is welcome to come down anytime to view them."
River readers’ list
Coleman has assembled a Mississippi River bibliography. Here is his recommendation to add to your reading list, as well as suggestions from other professionals who are intimate with the river. Enjoy!
Patrick K. Coleman
Acquisitions librarian for the Minnesota Historical Society
Title and summary: "Mostly Mississippi" by Harold Speakman. Designed and illustrated with drawings by Speakman and his wife, Russell Lindsay Speakman, this book chronicles the couple’s river trip from the headwaters in Itasca to New Orleans. The first leg of the journey—from Itasca to the Twin Cities—was in a canoe, and the remainder of the trip was in a 20-foot houseboat. Along the way, they meet (and sketch) a number of interesting people.
How has this book influenced you and your views about the Mississippi River?
This is one of the earliest accounts of a "recreational" trip down the river and creates a template for all other writers. All the themes that the Mississippi demands of an author are in this book—Native Americans, Mark Twain, race, the Civil War, the hardscrabble lives of some river denizens. "Mostly Mississippi" piqued my interest in both the natural river and the historic river. Their trip runs just downstream from the devastating floods of 1927, which means that the federal government had yet to invest heavily in controlling the waters. This is the book that inspired me to identify, collect and read all of the published accounts of travel down the Mississippi. Time will tell if the inspiration leads to following the authors."
John Anfinson
National Park Service historian and author of "River of History: A Historic Resources Study of the Mississippi National River and Recreation Area."
Title and summary: "River Journey," by Clarence Jonk. Jonk had high dreams of living cheaply and carefree during the Great Depression by building a boat and floating it down the entire length of the Mississippi River. However, his boat construction and trip planning skills were lacking, which led him to a series of adventures and misadventures on the river.
How has this book influenced you and your views about the Mississippi River? "Unlike so many travel account writers, Jonk does not try to parrot Mark Twain or play into the many clichés about the river that Twain’s works have spawned. Jonk takes a simple, naive, yet passionate look at travel on the river. He gives the reader a great sense of the time in which he is traveling (the Great Depression) and demonstrates a genuine reverence for the river. The Mississippi’s long adventure is central to the American story, and Jonk understood this at the same time he was writing himself into that story. From his book the reader learns about river pollution, the river’s role in getting around Prohibition, what the river was like on the eve of the 9-Foot Channel project and more.
Paul Labovitz
Superintendent of the Mississippi National River and Recreation Area, a 72-mile stretch of the Mississippi River in the Twin Cities metropolitan area that is managed by the National Park Service.
Title: "River of History: A Historic Resources Study of the Mississippi National River and Recreation Area," by John Anfinson
How has this book influenced you and your views about the Mississippi River?
"Easy answer; everyone knows the Mississippi River is an American treasure, and John’s book tells you why in amazing detail. Clearly the Mississippi River is one of the world’s great rivers. I see now why we at the National Park Service need to continue to deliver the stories so everyone who wants to know can be told to understand and appreciate this great resource, which luckily for us is right in our front yard. The river and its watershed are so big that it literally connects most of the country. We ought to pay more attention to it."
Patrick Seeb
Executive director of the St. Paul Riverfront Corporation.
Title and summary: "River of Conflict, River of Dreams," by Bilione Young. This book provides a detailed history of 300 years on the Upper Mississippi.
How has this book influenced you and your views about the Mississippi River?
"The author draws the reader into dramatic moments in the history of the Upper Mississippi River. She begins her book by telling the story of Mary Gibbs, the first female parks commissioner, who in 1903 at the tender age of 24, took on the lumber barons, whose dam just below Lake Itasca was flooding Itasca park. At gunpoint, she grabbed the lever to release the flood gates and declared that the flooding would end and the park would be protected. This single incident was illustrative of the many times opposing visions for the river came into conflict with one another. Both the parks commissioner and the lumbermen had a vision for ‘putting the river to good use.’ Young’s book reminds us how this has been the case over many centuries and in many contexts, and how we might expect these dreams and conflicts to emerge again in the future."
Whitney Clark
Executive director of Friends of the Mississippi River, a St. Paul-based citizen organization that works to protect and enhance the Mississippi River and its watershed in the Twin Cities area.
Title and summary: "Life on the Mississippi," by Mark Twain. Originally published in 1883, this book details Twain’s experiences as a steamboat pilot and river traveler. It is filled with humorous anecdotes and folktales of life on and along the river. Some of these experiences influenced his classic, "Huckleberry Finn," and helped make Twain one of the most popular humorists of his time.
How has this book influenced you and your views about the Mississippi River? "It is a classic. It is funny, poignant and helped establish the Mississippi’s place in the American imagination. I think the way that book affected me was to create for me the sense of this big natural system that affects and is affected by so many communities and so many people."
Posted from January 2009 issue
River’s Edge Academy Principal Meghan Cavalier braves snow and cold in late December to be near the Mississippi River. Starting this fall, students from her school will take weekly field trips to the Mississippi River to enhance their learning.
The river as a classroom New charter school to open this fall with a focus on the Mississippi River Tim Spitzack Editor
A group of high school students pile out of a van and onto the boat landing in Lilydale Regional Park, where a flotilla of canoes awaits them. It is 9 a.m. on a sunny September day and a retired man watches the scene unfold as he pulls his tackle and fishing pole from the trunk of his car. He casts a skeptical eye toward them and wonders why the kids are not in school.
This is a scene that could occur this fall with the opening of River’s Edge Academy, a new tuition free, public charter school that is using the Mississippi River as one of its classrooms. After years of preparation, and a one-year delay in opening, it is set to open in September with 120 students in grades 9-11. A location has not yet been selected but it is expected to be on the West Side.
Leading the way is Principal Meghan Cavalier, who lives in South St. Paul. She comes from Bethany Academy in Bloomington, where she served as science teacher and principal since 2006. Cavalier has a degree in science education and master’s in education administration from Bethel University. In addition, she is enrolled in the doctoral program there for K-12 administration to earn superintendent licensure.
Cavalier was attracted to River’s Edge because it combines her love of science, the environment and the Expeditionary Learning Outward Bound experiential method of learning, which is an approach that uses interactive experiences to help illustrate learning. For example, instead of merely reading about the effects of current flow from a text book, students will go down to the river and conduct experiments there.
"I’m really excited and pleased to take this position," said Cavalier. "It is a great concept that is a great fit for me. It applies my entire background in environment, science and the small school aspect."
Cavalier will supervise six teachers and two administrative professionals, and will receive support from her 10 board members, including board chair Ken Hanson, who is assistant vice principal at Central High School in St. Paul.
"We have high expectations for our students," said Cavalier. "We have a great board of directors who are working as a team and putting in checks and balances. That’s important and something that we’re committed to." Those checks and balances are there to ensure all students meet Minnesota state educational standards.
A primary goal at River’s Edge is to maintain a small learning environment, with a student-to-teacher ratio of 20:1. It plans to add grade 12 but will never become larger than 300 students. It is the first Expeditionary Learning Outward Bound high school in the Twin Cities, offering a curriculum that is project-based and focused on the environment and the Mississippi River.
"We will be out of the building on a field trip weekly, and have one culminating project every quarter," said Cavalier. "The Mississippi River has so much history and culture for St. Paul, and to cultures throughout time. For River’s Edge, it will allow us to create awareness of who we are and where we’re from."
Jeanne Morris of St. Paul will be sending her son John, now a ninth grader, to River’s Edge Academy next fall. She enrolled him for the 2008-2009 school year and was disappointed when she learned that the opening would delayed one year due to lack of students. The school needs at least 60 students to open and it missed that mark last fall. However, she was so enthusiastic about the school’s approach that she volunteered to become a board member to help interview teachers, recruit students and find a facility.
"The people who started the school are awesome people," said Morris. "I really like working with these people. They are so bright and enthusiastic and have so much to offer."
Morris is a firm believer in the charter school movement, even though her son John transferred from another charter school to Central High School in December due to lack of structure at his previous school. She became a fan of charter schools after sending her daughter to one in St. Paul. She attended her junior and senior years there and "really blossomed and turned around her attitude about learning," said Morris. She believes River’s Edge will do the same for John, who enjoys outdoor activities.
"It’s a more fun-type of learning and will carry over to adult life and have real life applications," Morris said of the experiential learning method.
Audubon Center of the Northwoods, an environmental group based in Sandstone, Minn., is the school’s sponsor. For more information, call 651-894-3357 or visit www.riversedgeacademy.org.
Posted from December 2008 issue
The former J.A.R. Toll Bridge was closed in 1999 after the state determined it was unsafe. New discussions may delay the expected demolition of the bridge.
The fate of a historic Mississippi River bridge hangs in the balance
If funding sources can be found, an abandoned bridge could be turned into a public amenity Tim Spitzack Editor
As the Mississippi River slowly freezes below the Rock Island Railroad Bridge, talks are heating up between Dakota and Washington counties on what to do with the 114-year-old swing bridge, located between Inver Grove Heights and Newport. Dakota County is exploring reuse options to transform the structure into a park amenity, and the National Park Service (NPS) is excited about that possibility. However, both counties are responsible for maintaining the bridge and are feeling pressure from the State and the U.S. Coast Guard to either fix the bridge or demolish it. Removal costs are estimated at $2.5 million, while reuse costs could be $5 to $8 million.
Inherited problem
The bridge, most recently known as the J.A.R. Toll Bridge, was closed in 1999 after the Minnesota Department of Transportation (MNDOT) inspected it and determined it was unsafe. Unable to pay for its renovation, the former owners forfeited the bridge to the State after not paying taxes on the property. The State, in turn, told the counties that they were responsible for its maintenance. With the bridge closed, the U.S. Coast Guard wants it removed, saying it is a navigational hazard.
According to Wayne Sandberg, deputy director of Public Works for Washington County, the County has wanted to tear down the bridge for the past several years but has put off that decision to allow other parties to come up with a better reuse plan, and the funds to implement it. Now, he says, it’s time for action. If no one steps forward soon, the County expects to start the demolition project next November, after the end of the shipping season.
"We’ve been pushing off that (demolition) date to allow others to come forward. Now, we feel we’ve done our due diligence," said Sandberg. "It would have been nice to see this bridge become a public amenity, but in Washington County that’s not going to happen."
The reason is because the land leading to the approach on the Washington County side is part of a security perimeter around the adjacent Marathon-Ashland refinery, created following the 2001 terrorist attacks on America. Washington County closed the road leading to the bridge so there is no access to it and no chance of creating county park land around it.
The western approach is a different story. This approach is owned by Dakota County and still has easy accessibility. A 2007 feasibility study commissioned through a joint agreement between Washington and Dakota counties presented some creative reuse ideas for the bridge, including transforming it into a pedestrian walkway with overlooks, interpretative displays, fishing access, and use as a trailhead for the Mississippi River Regional Trail.
Sandberg agrees that’s a great idea, but to do so, Dakota County or the National Park Service would have to own the entire bridge. From Washington County’s point of view, it’s all or nothing. The reasons have to do with both economics and public safety.
"It’d be great if someone would come and save this thing. It’s got a great history, but it’s also a public hazard," said Sandberg. "The bridge is unsafe for traffic. It’s fracture-critical, so if one portion goes, it all goes."
Currently, the swing portion is in the open position and he’s heard reports of boaters tying up to it and climbing on the structure. On the western side, efforts to keep people of the bridge have been unsuccessful. The potential for problems are many since some of the wooden fencing on the bridge has been destroyed and the end of the bridge does not have a railing or barricade to keep someone from falling off the end.
Nonetheless, Dakota County is continuing to explore both reuse and demolition options.
"The County is looking at what decisions need to be made and what the County’s role is," said Lynn Thompson, acting physical development director for Dakota County. She described it as a complex issue that needs further exploration before the County takes an official position.
What if…
Paul Labovitz, superintendent for the Mississippi National River and Recreation Area, a 72-mile stretch of the river in the Twin Cities metro area that is managed by the NPS, has been involved in discussions with both counties about the bridge. He and other park rangers led a public tour of the site in late October and are excited about the possibility of turning the bridge into part of the park system. He said the views from the bridge are spectacular and that using it as a park structure would allow more people to experience the river in a number of unique ways, from fishing and bird-watching to using it as a venue for art displays, concerts and other special events.
"We had over 1,000 people there and we had a mixed bag of reactions, but all positive," said Labovitz of the event. Reactions, he said, ranged from recounting personal experiences on the bridge to the awe from seeing the surrounding life and vitality of the river, which that day included a soaring bald eagle, a man kayaking underneath the bridge, a duck hunter in a camouflage boat and a barge passing by.
Labovitz said the Park Service is very interested in the reuse of the bridge and is encouraging county officials to pause and take some more time to consider all options, and to get more public feedback.
"There is concern that the public process that led to the decision to demolish it wasn’t publicized well enough and didn’t give people enough of a chance to comment on it," he said.
When asked about funding, Labovitz pointed to potential grant programs available through the National Park Service, but speculated that if any federal dollars were used that they would likely come through transportation funds.
Historical significance
The bridge has a colorful and storied history. When it was built, it was said to be the world’s largest swing bridge, featuring a 2-deck design that allowed passenger trains to traverse the river on the upper deck and passenger traffic on the lower deck. It has been reported to be the last operating swing bridge and toll bridge in the Twin Cities, and legend has it that gangster John Dillinger crossed the bridge in the 1930s while fleeing from the police.
According to Sandberg, the Pacific Railroad and Chicago Rock Island Railroad closed the tracks in 1982. Labovitz said there is a national bridge preservation organization that is looking at steps to preserve the bridge for its historical significance.
Posted from November 2008 issue
Runoff into the Mississippi River in St. Paul.
Mississippi River water quality addressed in proposed state amendment Clean Water, Land and Legacy Amendment to appear on election ballot Tim Spitzack Editor
This summer the Minnesota Pollution Control Agency (MPCA) issued a water quality report on Minnesota’s lakes, rivers and streams, and the findings were startling. The report said 510 lakes and 336 rivers have "impaired" water quality issues, including the Mississippi River which is 58 percent impaired in the metro area and 82 percent in the state. "Impaired" means that the water quality is below state standards for public use. For example, in the St. Paul area, swimming and eating fish from the river are not recommended due to high levels of PCBs and fecal coliform.
Water quality has attracted the attention of state legislators, who are now grappling with the issue and are looking to voters for help. It’s difficult to determine just how serious the issue is since less than 18 percent of the state’s lakes and less than 14 percent of its rivers have been tested. However, of those tested, 40 percent of them don’t meet water quality standards, according to Jennifer Maleitzke, MPCA spokesperson. The MPCA water quality report is released every two years, and this year 297 new lakes or rivers were added to the list.
Those figures have sparked enough concern that the Legislature is placing a state constitutional amendment on the ballot on November 4 to ask taxpayers to help fund programs to clean up our waterways over the next 25 years, and support other environmental and cultural programs. A constitutional amendment is the only way the Legislature can earmark funds for a specific purpose and ensure that money is not diverted from other programs.
The ballot question will appear this way:
Clean Water, Wildlife, Cultural Heritage, and Natural Areas
Shall the Minnesota Constitution be amended to dedicate funding to protect our drinking water sources; to protect, enhance, and restore our wetlands, prairies, forests, and fish, game, and wildlife habitat; to preserve our arts and cultural heritage; to support our parks and trails; and to protect, enhance, and restore our lakes, rivers, streams, and groundwater by increasing the sales and use tax rate beginning July 1, 2009, by three-eighths of one percent on taxable sales until the year 2034?
Voting yes to the amendment means you agree that it’s a good idea for the state to impose a three-eighths-of-one percent sales tax from July 1, 2009 to 2034 to support clean water, wildlife, cultural heritage and natural areas. If you vote no, you are rejecting a tax increase. If you leave the question blank, your ballot is counted as a no vote.
If the amendment passes, residents would pay an additional 3.8 cents on every $10 purchase that is subject to sales tax. This will generate about $300 million a year, which the amendment requires would be distributed as such: 33 percent for water quality, 33 percent for wildlife habitat, 19.75 percent for arts and cultural resources, and 14.25 percent for parks and trails.
Opponents of the amendment, such as the Taxpayers League of Minnesota, a non-profit taxpayer advocacy group, say raising taxes during these difficult economic times is irresponsible and that Minnesotans are already subject to high sales tax rates—Minnesota has the sixth highest sales tax rate in the country. They also point out that the Legislature has amended the constitution four times in the last ten years for environmental causes. In 1988, it was amended to establish the Minnesota Environmental and Natural Resources Trust Fund; in 1990 to dedicate 40 percent of the state Lottery proceeds to the Environment and Natural Resources Trust Fund until the year 2001; and in 1998 to extend the use of the Lottery for the Environmental and Natural Resources Trust Fund, and to preserve hunting and fishing heritage.
According to State Representative Rick Hansen, DFL, co-author of the amendment, Minnesota currently spends about $287 million annually on the environment, funded through the state budget and bonding bills. He said the amendment is needed because the portion of the state budget for environmental programs has decreased by 50 percent over the past 20 years, and he expects that downward trend to continue. The Minnesota Environmental and Natural Resources Trust Fund will supply over $51 million toward environmental programs for the next two years, beginning July 1, 2009. The fund is financed through the state Lottery and the distribution amount is determined biannually by the Legislature.
The idea for the amendment was first presented by sportsmens’ groups, but has since gained support from environmental and cultural organizations. Hansen believes it has such strong appeal because it will benefit our economy, tourism and quality of life.
"We have blues, greens, camouflage and blaze orange all working on this," said Hansen, who represents West St. Paul, Mendota, Mendota Heights, Lilydale, and portions of South St. Paul and Eagan.
Hansen said the amendment is very specific on how the funding would be spent. For example, the funds for water quality must be for clean-up efforts and programs that protect or restore water quality and drinking sources. The wildlife funding must be used to preserve wetlands, prairies, forests and wildlife habitat, and the parks funding for the maintenance and construction of regional and state trails. The arts funding is only for programs that support arts education, access and preservation of cultural heritage.
Posted from October 2008 issue
The unique architectural design of the newly renovated Raspberry Island can be seen from the Wabasha Street Bridge.
A stroll along the riverfront New walking tour highlights St. Paul and its relationship to the Mississippi River Tim Spitzack Editor
"Few people know how to take a walk. The qualifications are endurance, plain clothes, old shoes, an eye for nature, good humor, vast curiosity, good speech, good silence and nothing too much."Ralph Waldo Emerson
I have an old, worn sweatshirt hanging in my closet that has the above quote printed on it. It was given to me as a gift years ago and it finally fits the way I like it, loose and comfortable. I’ve kept it around these many years because it continues to keep me warm on chilly days and reminds me of the simple pleasures in life.
Walking with an eye on our surroundings is one of those simple pleasures, and there is a new self-guided walking tour that was produced by the Rotary Club of St. Paul that encourages you to do just that. Called Uniquely Saint Paul, this tour offers a route through downtown St. Paul that introduces you to the city’s history and culture, as well as its unique relationship to the Mississippi River. It also offers two side routes: one through historic Lowertown and the other along the Mississippi riverfront, entitled Stroll Rivertown. In the spirit of Emerson, I decided to venture out one sunny afternoon to stroll rivertown, with a cool breeze reminding me that these gorgeous days of summer are about to come to an end.
The Stroll Rivertown route starts at the north end of the Wabasha Street Bridge, continues across the bridge and turns west into Harriet Island Regional Park. It then retraces itself back to the foot of the bridge and continues east along the riverfront to the Robert Street Bridge. The route seemed too short for me so I modified it a bit, starting at the West entrance of Harriet Island Regional Park, near the Padelford Company packet boats. At the landing was a crowd of people dressed in red shirts waiting to board an afternoon excursion on the river. I began my walk along the brick and cement trail near the great steps that lead to the river, where two friends were sitting on the lowest step by the water, lost in conversation.
The trail through the park is wide and flat and is sandwiched between the river and the lush great lawn of the park, which was named in honor of Harriet E. Bishop, who in 1847 became the first school teacher in St. Paul. The trail was created in 1999 during a massive renovation project of the park by the city of St. Paul. At that time, individuals were asked to help foot the bill by buying a brick in the trail. Today, the bricks serve as living memorials to the many people who supported the project and who love the river and the park. It was a delight to discover one family’s contribution, which was a series of bricks purchased to commemorate a conversation between a "daughter and her daddy." The bricks read: "Is Harriet Island really an island," she asked. "No," he replied. "I didn’t think so," she reflected. "There are no coconut trees."
The city of St. Paul has done an excellent job maintaining the park and the trail, including the beautiful flower baskets hanging from each lamppost. The flowers are tended throughout the year by a cadre of volunteers of the Beautify St. Paul program.
Continuing east, you’ll see the park’s entertainment zone, featuring the Centennial Showboat, the Covington Inn, and the River Boat Grill. The Centennial Showboat is a joint venture between the University of Minnesota Theater Department and the Padelford Packet Boat Company. This summer marked the 50
th year that the U of M Showboat Players have performed summertime productions aboard a riverboat. The original showboat, which was destroyed by fire in 2000 during a renovation project, was built on the platform of the General John Newton, a 175-foot paddlewheeler that at one time was used as a maritime courthouse and was visited by at least four U.S. presidents. The University of Minnesota purchased the vessel in 1958 from the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, renovated it, and renamed it the Minnesota Centennial Showboat, in honor of the state’s centennial celebration. The new showboat opened in 2002, featuring Victorian-era décor, a grand staircase and the 225-seat jewelbox theater.
The Covington Inn is one of the country’s few floating B&Bs. It’s built aboard the 62-year-old Covington, a 300-ton towboat that pushed barges on the Ohio and Mississippi rivers from 1946 to 1976. The tow was rescued from dry-dock in Louisiana by the River Valley Preservation Company and eventually transported to St. Paul and renovated to become the Covington Inn, opening in 1995 with four distinctive suites. The River Boat Grill is open seven days a week, 9 a.m.-9 p.m., featuring a menu for breakfast, lunch and dinner. If you want to take in this unique floating restaurant, you’d better hurry because it closes for the season at the end of October.
Back on the trail and continuing east, you pass by the St. Paul Yacht Club, which has 230 boat slips and has been on Harriet Island since 1912. Here I enjoyed seeing the creative names of some of the houseboats, such as "D’Nile," and watching boaters talking over the dock that separated their boats as neighbors would over a backyard fence.
From the Yacht Club, the trail ascends slightly to the top of the dike, which reminded me of the fury that the river can possess during springtime floods. Anyone who grew up in the lost neighborhood of the West Side Flats surely remembers the pre-flood wall days when the river invaded their homes. Due to constant flooding, the city of St. Paul demolished the neighborhood in the 1960s, turning it into an industrial park. Here the trail also intersects with railroad tracks, which are a testament to how both the river and riverbank have long been used as a transportation supply line.
It was my intention to cross the Robert Street Bridge and then head back west to the Wabasha Bridge, and pick up the Stroll Rivertown route. To do that, I had to meander around the US Bank complex to get to the foot of the bridge. Crossing the bridge affords sweeping views of the river, including the many barges that line the river bend, and the Lower Landing, an area on the east bank that was the first steamboat stop on the river and the entry point for many immigrants to the city. I took the east sidewalk of the bridge to get a better view of the river and was glad I did because when I reached the other side, I discovered a park I didn’t know existed. This small park is located on the east side of Robert Street by the Ramsey County Government Center East building and features several pieces of public art that commemorate the river. One monument featured a stone cone that was encircled with the following prose: "Once I was a mighty river. It was rapture to serve peoplekind, but something besides my mighty current moved with me—cargo and contraband and sorrow too deep for even the Mighty Mississippi to fathom."
Crossing Robert Street and heading west, a trail leads along the bluff in Kellogg Mall Park. It was here in 1841 that the Reverend Lucian Galtier enlisted the help of eight men to build the chapel of St. Paul, from which the city derives its name. There is a monument in the park recognizing both the chapel and the men who helped build it. Enshrined in the concrete wall along the bluff is an image of Pierre "Pig’s Eye" Parrant, reminding us of our less-than-saintly origins. Parrant was a notorious fur trapper-turned-moonshiner who ran a tavern near here in the early 1800s. At that time, the fledgling city was often referred to as Pig’s Eye.
When I approached the Wabasha Street Bridge, I looked to my left and saw a grand view of the limestone bluff cascading down to the river. When early travelers saw these landmark bluffs, they knew they had reached the end of their journey to St. Paul. The bridge offers an alcove overlook from which to stop and enjoy the view of the river and the newly renovated Raspberry Island below. I have been on the island following its renovation, which was completed this spring, but have not yet had a bird’s-eye view of it. From the bridge you can see the artistic architectural design of the island, which features a new stone path resembling a river as it cris-crosses a cinder trail around the island. The park features trees and native plants and grasses, a bandshell, ample seating, and, at the east end, steps that lead to the river.
From Raspberry Island, I retraced my route back to my truck. Even with taking in the sights and scenery and strolling along at a leisurely pace, I finished the walk within an hour. And it was an hour well-spent.
Uniquely Saint Paul tour The Uniquely Saint Paul tour begins and ends at the Landmark Center and features 13 sites, including the Landmark Center, Rice Park, Landmark Plaza, The Science Museum of Minnesota Observation Deck and Big Back Yard, City Hall and Courthouse, Kellogg Mall Plaza, District Energy St. Paul, Mickey’s Diner, Fitzgerald Theater, St. Paul Hotel, Herb Brooks Commemorative Bronze Statue, James J. Hill Library and the F. Scott Fitzgerald Reading Alcove at the St. Paul Central Library. A brochure and map with illustrations and articles on each site is available at the Landmark Center, downtown hotels and other sites on the tour. The guide was developed in partnership with the city of St. Paul, with funding from the Todd and Martha Nicholson Family Foundation, AAA Minnesota-Iowa, 3M, Padelford Riverboats and the St. Paul Rotary Foundation. For more information, visit www.stpaulrotary.org.
Posted from September 2008 issue
The Harvest States head house and sack house, now called the “City House,” is being redeveloped into an interpretive center and trailhead for the Sam Morgan Trail.
Historic building to become newest cultural amenity on the river
Tim Spitzack
Editor
After nearly six years of dreaming, planning and assembling federal and local financing, construction is slated to begin on a $2.7 million project that will transform a historic structure on the Mississippi riverfront into one of the river’s newest cultural amenities, featuring a park pavilion, 3-season trailhead, interpretive center and space for special events.
If you’ve spent any amount of time along St. Paul’s riverfront, you’ve likely seen the facility that is widely known as the Harvest States head house and sack house, now referred to as the “City House” by the St. Paul Housing and Redevelopment Authority (HRA), which is managing the redevelopment project.The facility, located off Shepard Road near downtown St. Paul, was named to the National Register of Historic Places in 2004 because it was the first farmer-owned grain terminal cooperative in the United States.It was built in 1931 by the city of St. Paul and later sold to Harvest States to facilitate the transportation of milled flour by barge down the Mississippi River.
According to Marie Franchett, project manager for the HRA, the 110-by-45-foot one-story sack house, which was used to bag milled flour, will be converted into an interpretive center that will highlight the building’s history, the farmers’ cooperative movement and the Mississippi lock and dam system.It will also serve as a 3-season trailhead for the Samuel Morgan Regional Trail, which runs along the East bank of the river.
The sack house will receive a new roof, large glass doors and windows, and new decking and railings.The 7-story head house, which was used for weighing and conveying grain into barges and trains, will undergo exterior improvements only, including repairs to the concrete exterior walls, new windows and a new roof.Only a small portion of that building will be open to the public.In addition, the area around the building will be turned into a public plaza with landscaping, benches and stairs with access to the Upper Landing residential area.
Franchett said the head house is expected to be further developed in a second phase, which could include a restaurant on the first floor of the head and sack house buildings.In perhaps a third phase, supporters of the building would like to see the upper floors of the head house open to the public, with access to views of the two-story-tall grain scales in the interior of the building, the humphrey manlift and river overlooks from the upper floors.This would only be possible if an exterior elevator is added, which would require a substantial financial investment.
A restaurant has always been on the wish list for the project and was originally slated for the first phase of redevelopment but was scrapped when the previous developer, ADRZ, pulled out of the project.MS&R, a Minneapolis-based architectural firm, designed the project.As of press time, demolition of the deteriorated sack house roof was scheduled to begin the third week in August.Work is expected to continue through the fall and the site should be open to the public next spring.
The redevelopment of the facility began in 2002 when the St. Paul City Council worked with the St. Paul Riverfront Corporation to host a design competition for the abandoned structure.At that time, consensus among the community and city leaders was that the structure was worth saving.In 2003, the Preservation Alliance of Minnesota placed the structure on its Ten Most Endangered list.
“The main thing is to save the building and make it open to the public, and create a trail facility where people can learn about the history of the building,” said Franchett.“The success of this project is really due to strong community support.”
Posted from August 2008 issue
Over 100 inner-city girls recently took part in a canoe trip on the Mississippi River. The trip was the first of three planned this year to get more youth outdoors.
Youth unplugged New goal encourages 10,000 youth to experience recreation on the Mississippi River Tim Spitzack Editor Wiis.Ipods.Cell phones.Believe it or not, there are a growing number of youth who are discovering that it’s exciting to get unplugged from their electronics and plugged into outdoor recreational opportunities that benefit both body and mind.Among that group are over 100 inner-city girls who recently took part in a canoe trip on the Mississippi River, organized by the Girl Scouts, the National Park Service and Wilderness Inquiry, a non-profit organization that organizes outdoor adventures. The girls traveled in 21-foot Voyageur canoes on a 6-hour trip from HiddenFallsRegionalPark to HarrietIsland on June 14 as part of National Get Outdoors Day, promoted by Get Outdoors USA! to encourage youth to take part in healthy outdoor activities. It was also the first trip that was co-organized by the Park Service and Wilderness Inquiry as part of a new goal to get 10,000 youth on the river each year.The Park Service provided funding for the trip through the Mississippi River Fund.Wilderness Inquiry provided the equipment and the guides, and the Girl Scouts brought the excited youth, many of whom had never had such an outdoor adventure. “The kids yelled and squealed like they were at an amusement park,” said Mississippi National River and Recreation Area Superintendent Paul Labovitz, who took part in the event.“Kids were having the time of their life.We saw eagles and herons.It was spectacular.” The Park Service plans to work with Wilderness Inquiry to organize two or three more trips this summer, with an overall goal of 100 trips of 100 youth each per year starting in 2010.Groups might include the Boy and Girl Scouts, school groups, church groups and other youth organizations. Getting youth outdoors is not only good for the heart, it is good for the mind as well.According to research by Frances E. Kuo and Andrea Faber Taylor of the Human-Environment Research Laboratory at the University of Illinois, Urbana-Champaign, the self image of kids with Attention Deficit Disorder (ADD) improves after being outdoors, and children function better after outdoor activities.The “greener” the setting, the less severe the child’s ADD symptoms are. Sarah Milligan-Toffler, associate director for Minneapolis-based Wilderness Inquiry, said other research suggests that today’s generation of children is the first without a strong connection to nature.She said it is her organization’s goal to change that. “When people think about the wilderness, they often think about up North, and the Boundary Waters Canoe Area, the BWCA,” she said.“We are calling this the MCA, the Mississippi Canoe Area.You don’t have to go very far to have a great outdoor experience.” Wilderness Inquiry offers outdoor adventures for a wide variety of people, including people with disabilities.It conducts over 250 events each year for more than 9,000 people.Events include canoe, kayak, hiking, horse, dogsled and raft trips throughout North America and the world.Its mission is to provide outdoor adventure experiences that inspire personal growth, community integration and enhanced awareness of the environment.For more information on future trips on the Mississippi River with Wilderness Inquiry and the National Park Service, visit www.wildernessinquiry.org, or call 612-676-9400. A second canoe trip for Girl Scouts is planned for 10 a.m.-4 p.m., September 20.The trip will launch from the north entrance of HiddenFallsPark and end at HarrietIsland.For more information, call Pat Frankenfield at 651-665-4641.
Learn More To learn more about news, events and recreational and volunteer opportunities in the Mississippi River National River and Recreation Area corridor, visit these sites: National Park Service - www.nps.gov/miss Mississippi River Fund - www.missriverfund.org Friends of the Mississippi River - www.fmr.org (includes a Mississippi River Field Guide) Great River Road (Minnesota Mississippi River Parkway Commission) - www.mnmississippiriver.com
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